Sunday, June 7, 2009

Photographing Falling Water Drops Using High-Speed Flash

We’ve all seen those amazing photographs of drops and splashes of liquids frozen in motion as they fall. Using high-speed flashes, photographers freeze the motion of falling drops to create beautiful and abstract images of things the human eye would never be able to see naturally.

Water Droplet 5


Inspired by a recent posting on the Strobist blog, I decided to try some high-speed flash photographs of falling water drops myself. The Strobist post is a great tutorial on using one flash to freeze falling water drops, so I will not go over the technique here. But I will show you how I set up my shots, and the results I came up with in just a few hours.

The Setup

I decided that the kitchen sink was the best place to set my shots since I needed a continuous drip of water and it was likely to get messy. I set up a dark colored bowl under the tap and started a slow drip of water.


I set up my Nikon D300 on a tripod in front of the sink. I don’t own a macro lens, so I used a Kenko extension tube and mounted the lens on it. I used my Nikon 18-200 (Set to manual focus with VR off) for some of the shots and my Nikon 80-200 f2.8 AF-D for the others. For convenience, I used a cable release - though this isn’t really required.

For the lighting, I set up a large white reflector at 90 degrees to the camera axis – a piece of foam core I keep handy for this purpose. I decided to use my Nikon SB-600 flash and bounce the light off the reflector. For a few of my initial shots, I used the SB-600 on-camera, and swiveled the head to bounce the light off my foam-core reflector. Subsequently, I decided to take the flash off–camera, and trigger it using the onboard flash of the D300 in Commander mode. This is easy enough to do with Nikon CLS flashes like the SB-600 which make off-camera flash pretty easy.

I set the SB-600 to manual and the flash output to 1/16 power and the D300 to manual mode with shutter speed of 1/250 and an aperture f/11 to give adequate depth of field. After setting the focus manually, I fired off a few test shots, and adjusted the ISO to get the correct exposure. (I did not want to open up the aperture more than f8 or 11 to avoid losing depth of field.)

The Photographs


With the camera on the tripod, the water dripping into the bowl, the exposure and focus set and the flash positioned in place, it’s all a matter of timing! Watch the water drip and try to trigger the shutter release at the right moment. Digital makes it easy to shoot a lot!

I tried a few shots with a light colored bowl, but the dark colored bowl seemed to work better because there were less highlights to deal with. With these shots we are shooting the highlights off the water, and a light colored bowl seemed to introduce too many highlights.

I also experimented with some colored filters on the flash to add a touch of color to the images. I had some colored filters from my black and white photography days, which I simply placed in front of the flash. Between red, green and orange, the orange filter was the only one I liked. Red and green were too intense and cut out too much light.

Water Droplet 6

You can see some of the results I got here.

Using this basic setup I was able to get some interesting shots in a few hours, but there’s no limit to the variations of lighting, color, liquids, flash speed that can be tried out to give some spectacular results. Head on over to the Strobist Flickr Group for some more samples of pictures people have taken using this and similar setups!

Saturday, May 30, 2009

Microsoft ICE – A Free Tool For Creating Panoramic Images

Ever been at the top of a mountain with a spectacular panoramic view below you, and wished you could get a picture of it all?

Even with a super-wide-angle lens, it’s not always possible to capture the full splendor of a magnificent panorama, and you may not have a 180-degree-covering fisheye lens handy!

Mount Constitution - Panorama

One great option is to take a series of images rotating your camera to cover different parts of the panorama, and then stitch the images together later to create a panoramic image. Microsoft Image Composite Editor (ICE) is a free tool from Microsoft Research which lets you do exactly that.

Though there are many image stitching applications out there, including commercial ones, I like Microsoft ICE because:
  • It's free!
  • It does an excellent job of stitching together images seamlessly.
  • It has a wide range of output formats including JPG, TIFF and Photoshop as well as multi-resolution formats like Silverlight Deep Zoom
  • Did I mention it's free?

Creating A Panoramic Image With ICE
Stitching together photos to create a panoramic image with ICE is pretty simple:
  • Fire up Microsoft ICE.


  • Pick the images you want to use for the panorama – you can drag and drop them into the ICE window.


  • ICE reads the source images and creates a composite. It automatically picks the appropriate camera motion. If you stood in one position and panned horizontally to get your panoramic images it will pick “Rotating Motion”.



  • Crop the composite image to taste, using the cropping handlebars.




  • Pick the export format and scaling for the output image and export to your format of choice. The images can get pretty big, so you may want to scale the output down unless you want a large image file.




  • The exported image!


Mount Constitution - Panorama



In Conclusion...

If you’re looking for an easy way to stitch photographs together to create panoramic images, Microsoft ICE is an easy-to-use option which works very well. It's free, and is definitely worth a look!

Microsoft uses the same technology in Windows Live Photo Gallery, so if you use that, you have the capability to create panoramic images already.

Microsoft ICE can be downloaded here.